Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Newport, RI

I haven’t been to Newport since I was in high school.  The wife and I decided to take a little overnight trip there and see how much had changed in the [redacted] years it’s been since we’d last seen it.  At first glance of the downtown area not much had changed.  As we walked Thames Street we realized there was one huge difference.  We were 21 and could drink in any of the bars we wanted.  Late in the afternoon we started eating our way through downtown.

Our first stop was Busker’s Irish Pub.  It was a dark looking place from the street and upon wandering in the front door realized it was pretty dark inside as well.  We sat at the bar and ordered a few beers and an order of Irish fries with gravy.  What are Irish fries you ask?  They are simply thick cut fried potatoes.  Some would call them French fries or Freedom fries.  But we were in an Irish pub, so…Irish fries.


The fries were freshly cut and twice fried leaving a crispy outside and a soft steamy inside.  They were served with a side of beef gravy that was to die or.  Made in house (or the absolute best jarred gravy I’ve ever tasted) the gravy was thick enough to hold onto the fries for the trip to my mouth.  After one bite I turned to the wife and said “I could only imagine a big beef sandwich smothered in this gravy.”  She had hers with some malt vinegar.  It took us two rounds of beers to finish the basket.

The second beer I ordered was a Bellhaven Scottish Ale.  It was a very creamy beer with a color slightly darker than Killian’s Irish Red but a much smoother and creamier texture. 

 
After we finished up there, we headed further down Thames to Sambar, a Brazilian tapas bar.  Here we had to ask several questions about the menu items and ended up with Portuguese Calso Verde (a soup of chicken broth, chorizo, and kale) and some sort of marinated chicken that was then fried and served with a creamy dipping sauce.


The soup was a delicious blend of salty broth, slightly spicy sausage, and earthy kale all mixed into one.  There were a few chunks of potatoes in the mix as well.  The wife and I sat there trying to figure out what the seasonings were.  We came up with sausage.  It seems as though the flavor permeated the entire soup but was not over powering.

The chicken was marinated in a blend of spices including garlic (it’s the only one I remember) then deep fried.  It was not coated in any kind of batter or bread crumbs and it was still on the bone.  Being on the bone it was still very juicy and very flavorful.  The sauce seemed to be a seasoned sour cream based sauce and paired very nicely with the slightly sharp marinade on the chicken.  


We also ordered a few more beers.  This time I went with a local brew Newport Storm.  As you can see the wife had a Stella.  The Newport Storm was very tasty and had a mild fruit flavor to it.  It hinted at apples or even a cider-like flavor.  About this time we met a nice local couple, Pat & Maggie, who told us about a few other places we should try.  They were nice enough to drive us to the next few locations.



The next stop on our eating tour was Perro Salado, a Mexican place just off the main strip.  Here we considered indulging in a pitcher of margaritas.  Instead I went with the Brooklyn Lager, a crab and goat cheese empanada, and pork tacos with a habanero salsa (made in house). 


I’m not a huge fan of crab.  I love crab legs drenched in drawn butter but other crab dishes tend to have a fishy flavor to me.  These empanadas did not.  They had the slight flavor of the sea paired with the creaminess of the goat cheese in a golden flaky crust pocket.  It was like a gourmet Hot Pocket.  We had fresh home made guacamole on the table as well.  I’m not sure if it was for the empanada or not but I put some on and was happy I did.  The freshness of the avocados and tomatoes added nicely to the already layer flavors of the crab and cheese.  


The pork tacos were some of the best I’ve ever had.  The meat was stewed with seasonings and cooked until it practically fell apart.  It was smoky and juicy and full of flavor.  Sandwiched in soft taco shells and topped with habanero mango salsa made fresh in house, this was a treat for the taste buds.  Next time I’m in Newport, I *will* be getting these again.

Everything after this point in the night is kinda fuzzy.  I know we ended up at Cappy’s Hillside Cafe and beat some locals in billiards.  I smoked a cigar on the walk back to the hotel and ended up with a half eaten pepperoni pizza in the room.  


Thursday, February 26, 2009

Food Guy's Gumbo

I love Creole cooking.  I love the boldness of the flavors and the earthiness of the spices.  I’ve been making gumbo for a few years now, and I think I’ve finally gotten the hang of it.  Everyone makes gumbo different.  This is my version. 

1 cup oil
1 2/3 cup flour
1 cup chopped celery
1 medium chopped onion
1 large chopped bell pepper (red or green)
1 lb Andouille sausage
1 lb chicken (cut into chunks)
1 lb crawfish tails
1 Qt chicken stock
1-2 bay leaves
Palm full of fresh parsley & thyme chopped
Salt & Pepper
File Powder (optional)
Hot sauce (garnish)
Scallions (garnish)
Rice (cooked)

I start in a large pot (a Dutch oven would be best, but I don’t own one yet).  The first step is to make a roux.  You can do this ahead of time, but I always make it fresh.  Heat to medium-high.  Add 1 cup of vegetable oil and 1 2/3 cup of flour.  Constantly stir with a wooden spoon.  You may need to adjust the heat of your stove because you can’t let this burn.  If any black spots appear, you’ll need to start over.  As you stir you’ll notice the roux thicken and start to turn a darker shade.  I look for a dark peanut butter color before I move on to the next step.


On the side, brown the sausage in a nonstick skillet. 

Once the proper color is achieved in my roux I add in the trinity (onions, celery & peppers).  Stir in and cook for 5 minutes.  After the vegetables are slightly tender add stock slowly and stir while adding it as to avoid roux chunks.  If using low sodium stock add some salt at this point.  Also add the bay leaf and a few grinds of black pepper. 

Bring the stock to a boil and then reduce heat to a simmer.  Add the browned sausage (it’s a good idea to pat the sausage dry if it looks greasy).  Simmer on low for 45 minutes until broth reduced and thickens.  About half way through this I add the thyme. 

Once reduced by about 1/4 add the chicken.  I use all white meat cut into chunks.  Add parsley.  Simmer for 8-10 minutes or until chicken is cooked all the way through.  Then add the crawfish tails.  I use frozen tails that I thaw out slightly before adding to the pot (it’s all that’s available in New England).  Since these are cooked, they only need to simmer until they are hot all the way through.  


Serving suggestion:  I like to serve my gumbo in a bowl with a large scoop of rice in the middle.  Then I sprinkle on some fresh scallions and a pinch of file powder and add a few dashes of hot sauce.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Victoria Station - Salem, MA

We travelled to Salem, MA for a couple of days to check out the sites, see some witches, and eat some good food (hopefully).  It was a short trip.  We arrived Friday night and left Sunday morning.  Since we got there so late Friday night I had already eaten.  However, I did find a street vendor selling dirty water dogs.  Though they were insanely overpriced, I got one.


It was actually rather good.  That’s a foot long with processed cheese and Tabasco sauce.  None of my pictures seemed to come out good that first night.  What’s there to say about a hot dog purchased from a random street vendor at 10:00PM?  Anyone who’s ever had one has tasted this.  When it’s late at night and you’re having a few alcoholic beverages, nothing beats the dirty water dog.

The next morning we ate breakfast in our hotel.  They had a nice spread of pastries and danishes along with a waffle maker (but they were out of batter), some fruit, bacon, sausages, potatoes, powdered eggs, and an omelet station.  I went with an omelet with onions, peppers, cheese, and again a few dashes of Tabasco sauce (I love that stuff). It turned out to be your run of the mill buffet omelet.  The potatoes however were interesting.  They were red bliss potatoes baked in an oven with rosemary and thyme and a light coating of olive oil.  They tasted more like oven fries that I make at home and serve with roasted chicken than home fries that you would expect with breakfast.  


Later in the day after walking around the city we worked up an appetite and we came across Victoria Station, a restaurant right on the waterfront in Salem.  This was only a few blocks down from the famed House of the Seven Gables and the world’s oldest candy store, Ye Olde Pepper Companie.  Most of the food here was obviously prepared (i.e. jarred sauce, salsa, etc…) I started with the French Onion soup.


It was typical French Onion with a salty beefy broth containing sweetly stewed onions and a rather large crouton and huge glob of melted cheese topping the crock.  The soup was lacking the density of onions I like but the flavors were well balanced and not too salty as onion soup tends to be.  The wife had New England clam chowda and our friend Nick had something that was obviously delicious though I can’t recall what it was.  


Then we moved on to our appetizers.  We ordered Eggplant rollatini, fried artichoke hearts, and nachos.  

The eggplant was OK.  It was a bit over cooked which greatly affected the texture and kind of turned it to mush.  The cheese filling was tasty and slightly salty with a mixture of ricotta and mozzarella seasoned with a touch of black pepper and fresh parsley.  The sauce was not made in house as was apparent by the flavor.


Anytime I receive a plate like the nachos on my table I get excited.  It is such a fun food to eat with a group of friends.  Someone doesn’t like the jalapenos?  That’s ok, more for me.  There was a nice mix of cheese, salsa and sour cream dotted with jalapenos, black beans and scallions.  


The artichoke hearts were…unique to put it nicely.  They were canned whole artichoke hearts dipped in a flavorless batter and deep fried.  I’m not sure if the boiling liquid that squirted out of them upon first bite was natural juices, leftover water from the can or oil.  I’m pretty sure it wasn’t oil as that would have actually added some flavor to the dish.  The only thing that had any flavor on this plate was the remoulade it was served with.  The remoulade was actually the only thing that tasted like it was made in house.  


Overall this was a good meal.  Upon reading the back of the menu I learned the history of this restaurant.  There used to be something like 100 of these across the country in cities and towns that had “historical” areas.  Now the one in Salem is the only one left.  It was a nice building with a great view of the harbor and some really cool décor and an awesome bar.  The bar was one of the neatest bar coolers I’ve ever seen.  Of course I ordered a beer instead of taking a picture.  However, the bar was the highlight of the meal.  Would I go back to Victoria Station next time I’m in Salem?  Sure.  But only for drinks and I’d sit at the bar or on the outdoor patio if it were warm enough.

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